Suvretta House St Moritz Switzerland

St Moritz over the Christmas Holidays has long been a meeting ground of the super rich. This is where the twin concepts of tasteful vulgarity and understated ostentation were first developed. If one happens to be hit by a car on the crowded streets of thew village one at least has the consolation of knowing that one has been run over by a Lamborghini. The prices at the leading hotels have risen into the stratosphere (the glitterati tend to stay mostly at the Palace). Sour apples perhaps, but it's not for me. However, in the low season (the second half of January in winter and June and September in summer) it's still possible to get some impression of what St Moritz was originally about, namely spending a quiet few days in the midst of a truly stunningly beautiful mountainous countryside while enjoying all the creature comforts. My favourite hotel by far is the Suvretta House. One of the five five star establishments that the village can boast of, it's located well outside of town, surrounded by woods. While the outside has not shaken off the assertive monumentality of pre World War I hotel architecture, on the inside everything reflects luxury and good taste, two qualities that are not always conjoined. Everything conducive to an extended stay is provided, there is a huge indoor pool, a spa, tennis courts, the ski slopes are but a short walk fom the front door, there are well maintained hiking paths leading in all directions. My favorite is the one leading down to the lake in the village and then, through the woods to Pontresina, whence one returns by train, altogether a half day's trek. More serious climbing is also available several twelve thousand foot peaks may be ascended with a day's climb. Indoors a small orchestra plays dance music both at the tea hour and in the evenings. The food in the restaurant is at the high end of grand hotel cookery, somewhere between one and two star Michelin rating. If you're bored here you have only yourself to blame. The downside is that, even in low season half pension (breakfast and dinner) in a decently sized room will cost you around 1,200 Swiss Francs a day for a couple. If this lies within your means (they lost me some time ago) this is one of the most pleasant means of spending a week or two that I can think of.