Sunday, September 18, 2011

Hotel les Pyrenees St Jean Pied de Port; Hotel Artzain Echea Esterencuby France








St Jean Pied de Port is a delightful little Pyreneean town. It lies some thirty miles inland from the Atlantic coast at the head of a river valley. There are splendid mountain views and the town serves as a center for all imaginable varieties of mountain sports and treks. If it's been thought of you can do it there. I will suggest two different hotels, very different in the level of luxury which they provide and, of course in price.





Hotel Les Pyrenees is in the center of town, installed in a onetime coaching inn. This has been thoroughly modernized, the rooms are elegant and spacious, the bathrooms could almost be described as sumptuous, there is an atmosphere of refined elegance about the place. There is a nice outdoor pool surounded by an elegant garden.Even with all that, the main attraction is undoubtedly the restaurant. This is the proud bearer of two Michelin stars (alright, technically these are rosettes, but nobody calls them as that), the cuisine is a Basque inspired expedition into the realms of the imagination, offering such curiosities as an foie gras and truffle lasagna and any number of cray fish dishes. The least expensive set menu is about $65. The rooms in season go for around $240 but you can do a lot better out of season.





Hotel Artzain Echea is some five miles upriver, in the hamlet of Esterencuby. It's built on a slope directly above the stream. At night you'll be carried off to sleep by the sound of the stream rushing by. The rooms, while small, are pretty and extremely well kept, the bathrooms are adequate. The cuisine is Basque family cooking, hearty and very tasty. The valley provides hikes through spectacular mountain scenery, in season you can opt for both hunting and fishing arrangements and there's an outdoor pool. If you're looking for an uncomplicated few days in beautiful surroundings this is your ticket. A prix fixe menu runs to about $35, the rooms cost $70.

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