One has to keep in mind that Provence and the Riviera are not exactly recent discoveries as vacation destinations -- the British were already flocking there in the middle of the nineteenth century and nowadays, in season, there are hordes of French and foreign tourists and most hotels are fully booked. This means that the top hotels charge fantasy prices and even at the lower levels you'll hardly find any bargains. My preference is to stay inland, I no longer much care for the frenetic atmosphere of the seaside resorts. Les Beaux is an unbelievably picturesque village of stone houses that perch on the top of an escarpment. There's a massive castle and there are fantastic views of the surrounding countryside and the Rhone delta. Benvengudo means welcome in the Provencal dialect, and this is what you will experience in this pleasant converted farmhouse situated at the base of the citadel. The rooms are decorated in the local style with a profusion of brightly printed cottons, the prevailing atmosphere is one of contented relaxation. There is a delightful garden where, on warm evenings (which in Provence can persist well into fall) a fixed menu which varies with what was on offer at the market that day is served. Doubles start at $150 for the night.
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