The Dordogne is first of all about prehistory. Some of the world's finest examples of cave painting are found here; unfortunately, while some of the lesser caves, such as the Grotte de Font de Gaume are on display, because it was found that the emanations from large number of daily visitors caused these to deteriorate all the more famous ones can only be visited on written application. If you are willing to take the trouble and can come up with the requisite academic credentials (an academic snobbery that cannot even be encompassed by Americans prevails in France) this is eminently worth doing. But the Dordogne is also about following the river as it makes its sinuous way through the lovely countryside. Les Eyzies de Tayac is a charming village plunked down in a green river valley. The Hotel Le Cro Magnon, nestled against a cliff, while its level of comfort is well above what its name implies, is nevertheless a traditional, rather old fashioned French country hotel. The rooms are quite large, but don't expect much in the way of luxury. Sadly, the restaurant has now lost the Michelin star it once had, but the food is still very good in a traditional manner. A double is about $100.
Sarlat la Caneda is a small town in the Dordogne region that, in its city center, is perhaps the best preserved exemplar of medieval secular architecture in France. The market place in particular looks precisely as it must have appeared in the middle ages. One has the feeling that one is walking not in a town but in a museum. The Hotel La Madelaine is an imposing nineteenth century structure near the center. The rooms have been completely modernized and the bathrooms are very spruce indeed. There is also a sophisticated spa. A double room costs about$100.The restaurant serves very nicely prepared regional dishes, or you can try Le Grand Bleu near the station, which has a Michelin star and offers a three course pix fixe for $40.
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