Friday, September 23, 2011

Hotel La Montagne de Brancion



Burgundy in the first instance is about wine. The Burgundies, particularly the reds, are heavier than clarets and, as a result, in order to stand up to them, the cuisine, which is butter based, also tends to be heavier than that of most other regions of France. On a prolonged stay you'll eat well, but you'll gain weight. The Maconnais, in the south of the province, is a lush , hilly area that mostly produces mass market wines. It is a veritable nest of Romanesque churches. (I've often asked myself why it is that so many churches and so few secular buildings remain from the period. The obvious answer that churches don't have to provide much in creature comforts doesn't quite satisfy: houses that lack amenities don't necessarily have to be torn down and rebuilt, they can always be renovated). For me, the greatest of these is the abbey church of St Philibert in Tournus. which represents the full flowering of eleventh century omanesque. On the outside it has a somewhat strange appearance, the tower looks as if a fully fledged Carolingian church were perched atop of it, but on the inside all is harmony and elegance. In contrast to the somewhat squat appearance of Auvergne Romanesque everything soars upward. The culptured capitals are very fine indeed. There are several good hotels in the town and two restaurants with a Michelin star, but in summer it can be both hot and noisy and I generally prefer to stay some ten miles away, on top of the Brancion pass. The hotel is situated on the outskirts of a picturesque hamlet. It has functional, modern rooms, there are beautiful views of the vineyards streching out below, there's a small castle nearby, and an outdoor pool. The food is well prepared classical Burgundian cuisine. In season a double goes for about $140 for a night. A visit to nearby Taize, the famous interdenominational religious center, will put one in touch with the huge enthusiasm of the mostly young visitors there.

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