This little spa town in northernmost Auvergne was once the favorite of royalty for its restorative baths. Madame de Montespan, Madame de Sevigne and Talleyrand built substantial houses here in which to reside for the season. These three massive stone edifices, standing next to each other, were combined and transformed into a hotel in the late nineteenth century. Staying here is very much like stepping back into the Belle Epoque. The furniture, mostly wicker in the guest rooms, the decor, the wall paper all evoke it. There's a solarium full of tropical plants. One may still take the waters if one is so inclined, if not there's an outdoor pool. The cuisine is traditional, not to say old fashioned, cream sauces abound. In the stately dining room numerous old ladies eat at tables for one on which sit wine bottles that have been carefully marked th show the previous evening's level. And it won't break the bank, a double starts at $90, there's a prix fixe for $35.
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