Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Parador Zamora Spain





















The parador, in the western part of Leon, is the former residence of the Counts of Alba y Aliste, a cadet branch of the great ducal family. It is a splendid Renaissance structure with an imposing interior courtyard, where one can drink an aperitif in the warm season, and beautifully proportioned hallways on the ground floor. Try to book a room at the front of the parte vieja (the old building) : these are immense, and are lavishly furnished with beautiful pieces including massive four poster beds. The food on offer in the dining room is good, but, apart from some regional dishes, some of which are definitely an acquired taste ( in particular, steer clear of the mijas, breadcrumbs soaked in a liter of liquid fat), tends to consist of standard grand hotel fare, which is too bad in a region justly famous for its grilled lamb and kid. The parador sits in the heart of the old part of town so that shopping and any number of restaurants, should you not wish to eat in, are within easy walking distance. Zamora boasts of twenty three Romanesque churches, including a massive cathedral, so if that happens to be your thing you will be well served. In addition a twenty minute drive gets you to the seventh century Visigothic church of San Pedro de la Nave, a veritable jewel. Parking is at a premium but there is a garage, free to amigos, but be forewarned that getting your car in, and, in particular, out, will be a real test of your driving skills. As generous as the Spanish are in other respects, when it comes to building garages they seem to be of the opinion that everyone drives a mini.

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