Thursday, July 28, 2011

The Paradors of Spain



I'll begin with some general remarks on the parador chain and go on to describe life in the paradors. There was a World Fair scheduled for Seville in the 1920's and in the planning thereof it soon became evident that Spain did not have nearly enough superior class hotels to accomodate the large number of foreign guests who would be coming. Someone came up with the idea of remedying this lack by having the government build these and Alfonso XIII, the grandfather of the present king, gave the idea his wholehearted support. In the nature of things, nothing was finished in time for the Fair, but eventually a chain of some ninety odd luxury hotels came into being, with half a dozen others to be opened in the near future. What is unique about the paradors is that while some of them were new constructions, the great majority are refurbished palaces, castles, fortresses, monasteries, chapter houses, baronial mansions and the like, of which there was a great plentitude going to seed in a country which had experienced a depressed ecomomy for a very long time indeed. As a result many of the paradors are genuinely impressive: vast interior spaces, a profusion of public rooms, spectacular sites. And while the interiors were brought up to modern standards, no expense was spared in furnishing them with period pieces, be it genuine antiques or at least first rate reproductions. In some of them the bedrooms are vast and feature four poster beds. The dining rooms offer good regional fare at standard prices (with the proviso that the menu remains the same throughout any given year, which is hardly ideal for a longer stay), and there is a truly sumptuous buffet breakfast on offer, which is included in the reductions for both young and old. If your Spanish is not up to snuff, the personnel at the front desk all have some English, as is the case with dining room staff. Moreover, while the paradors are hardly cheap, they cost a fraction of what European hotel palaces charge nowadays. A couple of tips: when making your first reservation ask to join the Amigos de Paradores. This will get you a card that entitles you to free parking in the garage (important in the cities), a complimentary glass of wine for two in the bar, and you will earn points toward a free stay. Secondly, you are entitled to a reduced rate if you happen to be young (under twenty five) or a senior (over sixty, and only one member of a couple need be). Finally, there are special promotions in selected paradors, such as two nights for the price of one, which are announced ahead of time in the bulletin for the Friends, published on line. You can also book a room at a considerably reduced price through Priceline, in which case you have to pay separately for the breakfast buffet and you do not accumulate any points. By now you will have concluded that I'm completely addicted to the paradors, which I freely admit. As I see it, this is, these days, given the parlous condition of the dollar, the very best way to enjoy a truly luxurious hotel stay for a reasonable price.

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